Living in Hong Kong in 2010

When the Hubs and I arrived in Hong Kong, we were presented with a copy of Living in Hong Kong 2010, a book published by the American Chamber of Commerce, or "AmCham" in line with the local propensity for abbreviation. I skimmed through the book in the back seat of the car that was showing us around Hong Kong, and vaguely noted a section called "Adjusting to life in HK", which I stumbled across again today. Since I was told that I sounded more American than Kami (who is California born and bred) on Sunday, I thought I'd put my Americanism to the test to see how I did against what the book suggested I had in store. I've extracted it here in italics, apologies for any infringements. Grammatical eyesores are not mine.

Stage 1: Pre-Move
This stage begins as soon as the idea of moving to Hong Kong is broached. It is a time of decision making on many fronts, gathering and assessing information and preparing yourself psychologically to cope with change.

It also involves all members of your family as they begin dealing with any negative feelings associated with the move. It is important to recognize these feelings so that you can deal with them constructively.

BAM! Down at the first hurdle. Since there wasn't much decision making involved (for me, anyway) with regards to moving to Hong Kong, I managed to hop, skip, jump over most of Stage 1. The information gathering I did extended as far as joining a book group, piggybacking on a dinner club and deciding where in Hong Kong I could bear to live. I suppose I also opened up Hong Kong dollar accounts through HSBC, the only option available from the UK. Oh, and I wrote to customs to confirm that I would be able to bring wine through untaxed. My family were surprised by the move, I suspect, though I am also fairly sure there weren't many negative feelings. The constructive solution of deciding to have a three bedroom flat in order to accommodate visitors may have contributed to that, though I suspect it was more to do with my family's tendency to live and let live. The Hubs' family was potentially more of a challenge, though they were sufficiently distracted by the latest addition to the family so as to not dwell on the abandonment by their only son.

Stage 2: Arrival
Arriving in Hong Kong seems to be a mixed bag of feelings and impressions. For some, everything new is interesting and exciting. For others, everything is a cause for concern or fear. At first, the novelty may be captivating. But it's still reassuring to find familiar foods and products and people that speak your language. This establishes your confidence to venture forth and keep learning more.

Hmm. Arriving in Hong Kong was a strange experience for us. The Hubs' firm had arranged for us to be put up in a serviced apartment for forty five days. We picked Harbourview Place in Kowloon, since I was phobic about Hong Kong island's domino-effect living. The flat was a one bedroom monument to storage solutions on the fifty seventh floor, with amazing views away from Hong Kong island, over Lantau and Kowloon. It is serviced daily and features high end products in the main. Since it's linked to the W hotel, we had access to the spa (too expensive for us) and rooftop pool. We also had access to room service. The building is also directly over Elements shopping centre and the airport express/Kowloon MTR station. Not exactly lacking in creature comforts.

In fact, it wasn't long before we went looking for interesting experiences, since things were too white bread for us. We managed to join in activities like Chinese cake-making and tea appreciation classes. We also started exploring the area on foot, which isn't something the locals advise since the weather is a force to be reckoned with. There isn't much to distinguish Hong Kong and Singapore, other than the price of goods and that not many people speak English to a conversational level. The main differences between Hong Kong and London would probably be the language, cost, weather and proximity (by which I mean the proximity of buildings). Personally, I found the crowds and intensely slow moving people a shock, as well as the attitude towards spending.

It has to be said though: it isn't difficult to find familiar foods here. There is definitely something for everyone, possibly to a higher standard than may be easily accessed in the West. For example, there are steak houses aplenty, but there's no entrecote here, just aged premium cuts and wagyu everywhere. As a Singaporean, I do struggle somewhat to find my comfort foods, but that isn't new after London. There isn't as much outdoor dining as I'd expected, so there isn't prata, or chilli crab. There are, however, Breadtalk and its incarnations, so I'm a happier bunny in this regard.

Even easier than finding familiar foods is finding someone who speaks your language, assuming that language is Chinese, English, American, French, German, Malay, Tagalog or Indian.

I think I'm past this stage.

Stage 3: Growing Awareness
After the early fascination with all things new and different, you will become aware of the many differences in a new culture. Within the first few weeks or months, you may begin to feel overwhelmed and experience nervous tension. Depending on personal factors, you may start to feel alienated, lonely, even depressed.

During this stage, it is important to be sensitive to your own needs, and the needs of your family members and to provide extra support to each other.

I'm inclined to claim that I've been feeling largely underwhelmed so far, but perhaps I'm just alienated, lonely and even depressed. Being stuck at home bored out of my mind on gardening leave might have something to do with it, but I should probably be sensitive to my own needs and deal with this the best way I know how. That is, with shops and spas. This will support the needs of my family member since I will be cheerful and euphoric after.

Stage 4: Turning Point
At this stage you may find yourself defending your own values, while criticizing and rejecting other value systems. The most familiar symptom of this stage is criticizing the manners and institutions of local people. You'll hear frequent griping whenever recent expatriates gather.

Although this complaining may be ugly, it still has its healthy aspects. It indicates an increasing awareness of the 'real' Hong Kong that is necessary for eventual acceptance of the culture and the people. If you persist though this stage, you will have a deeper appreciation of Hong Kong.

I think I may have jumped the gun on this one. The things that bother me here (other than the crazy prices) haven't been unexpected and so I suspect I had a head start on this stage. I've never been a fan of expatriate bitching, so try to refrain, though I may pipe up when a pregnant lady is pushed over on the rush to the MTR, or a stranger spits phlegm at my feet (I tend to only permit ex boyfriends to do this). There is something distasteful about people who choose to live somewhere different and then constantly complain about those differences. Acceptance is the key to zen, so while I may moan in the comfort of my home, I try to avoid it as a general practice.

Stage 5: Feeling at Home
Persisting through the first stages will pay off. You'll feel more relaxed in your new environment and able to cope with life in Hong Kong. You will find yourself more tolerant, self-sufficient and objective. And you will derive pleasure from an appreciation of both your own culture and that of Hong Kong.

Hmm. I do like the new flat. Ned Kelly's Last Stand is cool. The cinemas are good. My maid is good and seems reliable. The steroid injections are making my hair grow back. Could this be the start of a new, more positive me? Never say never!